Making progress: Tackling gender-based violence

date: 05/10/2018

Today Fair Wear Foundation launches a new publication charting the progress on tackling gender-based violence in the garment industry.

From the submission of a draft law on the prevention of sexual harassment in the workplace in Bangladesh to participatory research on gender-based violence in Vietnamese garment factories: these and other examples are compiled in the new publication, Gender Forum: One Year Later.

FWF and its partners have had a busy year implementing country-specific action plans to prevent and address sexual harassment and gender-based violence in the garment industry. The action plans were formulated one year ago at the Gender Forum 2017 in Vietnam (view photo gallery). The event was the first of its kind in Asia. Over the course of three days, participants gained knowledge and shared their experiences with gender-based violence in the world of work. ‘Working together’ was a principal theme. While there are many underlying causes of violence and harassment in the workplace, the Gender Forum’s goal was to not only discuss its reality, but to create specific action plans. The plans and their results have been compiled into the publication.

The Forum was organised by FWF, in collaboration with the International Training Centre of the International Labour Organisation (ITCILO) and Dutch trade unions CNV Internationaal and Mondiaal FNV.  Participants hailed from six garment producing countries—Bangladesh, Cambodia, India, Indonesia, Myanmar, and Vietnam—representing non-governmental organisations, trade unions, private sector companies and government.

Download the publication here to learn more about tackling gender-based violence in the garment industry.

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Bangladesh raises minimum wages – is it enough?

date: 28/09/2018

The government of Bangladesh recently announced that the minimum wage for Bangladeshi garment workers will rise by 51 percent from December. FWF’s country manager for Bangladesh, Koen Oosterom, responds to the news from Dhaka, where he recently conducted a workshop on labour minute costing for factory managers and unions.

How much more will garment workers in Bangladesh receive?
The new minimum wage for grade 7 (which is the lowest grade level) has been set at 8,000 taka (82 euros) a month, up from 5,300 takas (54 euros). The minimum wage levels for the other grades have not been announced thus far.

What would you have hoped for?
Although we are happy that the minimum wage will go up, we had hoped for more. According to various living wage benchmarks, 8,000 taka is not enough for garment workers to meet their basic needs, such as food, housing, utilities, medicine, or sending their children to school.

Did you try to influence the wage negotiations?
We sent a letter to the prime minister of Bangladesh, together with the Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile. We urged the Bangladesh government to show leadership and ensure a fair and negotiated increase of the minimum wage and take the collective demand of workers and unions into account.

How will the increase affect workers?
We are a bit concerned that this raise has the same negative consequences as the minimum wage raise in 2013. After that raise, we encountered problems like job losses (especially for helpers), reduction in bonusses, higher targets and production pressure and workers who got downgraded. The underlying cause was that factories were often not able to negotiate an increase in the FOB prices that takes the wage rise into account properly.

What are FWF’s next steps?
We will continue working on higher wages in Bangladesh. The FWF team in Bangladesh has just conducted seminars with factory managers and unions on labour minute costing and price negotiations. At FWF we want brands to take responsibility for raising wages in factories and it was good to see that the participating factory managers wanted to learn more about what that looks like in practice.

FWF Supplier Seminar, Bangladesh, September 2018


 Did you know that the garment export industry is the biggest earner for Bangladesh, accounting for 81% of total export earnings? And it is estimated that over 7,000 factories are linked to the export market. Read more about the garment industry in Bangladesh here.

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Mammut and ODLO celebrate 10-year anniversary at FWF

date: 18/09/2018

FWF brands Mammut and ODLO are celebrating their 10 year membership at Fair Wear Foundation. Both companies adopted the FWF Code of Labour Practices early on in 2008. They had the same goal: to improve workplace conditions in the garment industry.

As one of the first FWF outdoor companies, Mammut was and still is dedicated to applying stringent standards for fair working conditions. ‘For Mammut, it is a top strategic goal to ensure that our products are manufactured in an environmentally and socially sound manner’, said Peter Hollenstein, Corporate Responsibility Manager of Mammut Sports Group AG.  ‘FWF unites committed brands under a single roof. This is essential for Mammut to cooperate with other brands and combine strengths for improving workplace conditions in global supply chains.’

Julia Krämer, ODLO’s Sustainability Manager, commented: ‘Social and environmental responsibility has been at the heart of Odlo since the company was founded over 70 years ago and we are proud of our achievements towards a more sustainable future together with our partners. FWF membership especially helps us to improve our processes and the labour conditions thanks to exchange and a great deal of teamwork with FWF and other member brands like Mammut.’

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FWF and FNV partners submit draft law on prevention sexual harassment Bangladesh

date: 12/09/2018

On 12 September 2018, FWF and FNV partner organisations joined together in Bangladesh to submit a draft law on the Prevention of Sexual Harassment at Workplace to the Honorable Minister of Law, Justice and Parliamentary Affairs, Mr Anisul Haque and to the Honorable Minister of Labor and Employment, Mr. Md. Mujibul Haque, for their approval.

This draft law was created in response to a ground-breaking 2009 Supreme Court decision requiring the prevention of sexual harassment in the worplace. Based on the court’s decision, FWF’s Workplace Education Program has been providing training to factories to effectively address and prevent gender-based violence, which includes the establishment and strengthening of internal workplace harassment committees.

The draft was developed through the efforts of the Gender Platform, which involves seven partner-organisations of FNV and FWF—Awaj Foundation, OSHE, Karmojibi Nari, BILS, BLF, BNWLA and IndustriAll/IBC and in consultation with a broadrange of stakeholders.

The prevention of gender-based violence is a key focus of Fair Wear Foundation in Bangladesh and one of the priority areas under the Strategic Partnership, implemented together with Dutch trade unions CNV and FNV.

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Myanmar delegation to India to learn about addressing sexual harassment

date: 10/09/2018

Fair Wear Foundation organised a study visit for stakeholders from Myanmar to engage with representatives in India on ways to address violence and harassment in the workplace. The goal of the trip was to introduce relevant stakeholders from Myanmar on India’s legislative framework and its application in garment factories.

In 2013 India passed legislation to prevent and address the sexual harassment of women in the workplace. Legislation includes practical measures like the obligation to deliver training on sexual harassment and the requirement that companies with more than 10 employees—including garment factories—establish an Internal Complaints Committee.

The visitors attended several insightful meetings with FWF partner organisations SAVE and Cividep, trade unions, and government officials. They took time to visit a factory where the FWF Workplace Education Programme (WEP) has been implemented. At the factory, the group gained a deeper understanding of harassment and how the Internal Complaints Committee can help protect the rights of garment workers.

Harassment-free workplaces
Participants included representatives of Parliament, International Labour Organization (ILO), Confederation of Trade Unions in Myanmar, Myanmar Garment Manufacturers Association (MGMA), Gender Equality Network, Labour Rights Defender and Promoter (LRDP) and CARE Myanmar.

This trip represented one of the first times that representatives from government, the private sector, unions and NGOs gathered together to engage seriously on the issue of gender-based violence. It resulted in a strong commitment to work together to develop policies which will contribute towards harassment-free workplaces.

 

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Combined call to Bangladeshi government for wage increase

date: 09/08/2018

Fair Wear Foundation and the Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile wrote a combined letter to Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina of Bangladesh. In the letter, the two organisations urged the government of Bangladesh to show leadership and ensure a fair and negotiated increase of the minimum wage for the garment industry and take the collective demand of workers and unions into account.

‘Together, our business members buy hundreds of millions of dollars of products from Bangladesh,’ the letter read, ‘and many of our members have contributed significantly to the successful growth of the textile industry in your country. For Bangladesh to continue having a successful textile industry, the lives of the workers will have to improve.’  As the current minimum wage in the garment sector is BDT 5,300 (EUR 60 per month), Bangladeshi workers have one of the lowest minimum wages in the world.

Large voice
For wages to increase, the letter detailed that workers and their representatives need to be allowed to campaign for higher minimum wages without consequences. They also need their collective demands on minimum wages to be heard. In FWF’s Code of Labour Practices, the freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining is one of the eight codes member brands commit to as FWF members.

Bangladesh is one of the largest producing countries for the world’s clothing and shoes. It is also a country struggling to meet a living wage for its millions of garment factory workers. FWF believes that member brands producing in Bangladesh can have a large voice in demanding increased wages for the workers who make their clothes.

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Research on gender-based violence against garment workers in Vietnam

date: 11/07/2018

This year, FWF will be carrying out participatory research in Vietnam with a focus on identifying factors that lead to gender-based violence in garment factories. Research will be in partnership with CARE International.

The project titled ‘I am a garment worker: Survey on women’s safety and well-being in the garment sector’ began in April 2018 with a training in Hanoi, Vietnam led by FWF research consultant, Dr. Jane Pillinger. For two days, twenty participants from FWF and other NGOs learned about gender-based violence in garment factories, along with a skills training on participatory research.

The skills training allowed participants to offer feedback on what to include in the research design and in the data collection process. Stay tuned for the results of this participatory research and identified factors contributing to gender-based violence of female workers.

A large majority of women in the garment industry have faced some type of harassment or gender-based violence. Preventing gender-based violence is a primary focus of our work toward safe and healthy working conditions. For more about our efforts to reduce gender based violence, see our gender portal.

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More about Brand Performance Checks

date: 10/07/2018

What are the FWF Brand Performance Checks? 
The Brand Performance Checks are an independent assessment of how each FWF member brand is working to improve labour conditions in their supply chains.

Why focus on the brand?
Decent working conditions in the clothing industry of course need the support of clothing factories – after all they employ the workers.  But decent conditions also need the support of clothing brands, because they have a major influence over conditions in factories. The choices clothing brands make about how they do business can either support or undermine better working conditions.

What do the categories and scores mean?
FWF members are evaluated against a set of indicators; the benchmarking score is an indication of how brands are doing on these indicators. The monitoring percentage shows how much of a brand’s production volume is covered by their monitoring system. Depending on how long a brand has been a member, the combination of benchmarking score and monitoring percentage lead to a category.

Leader:  This category is for affiliates who are doing exceptionally well, and are operating at an advanced level. Leaders show best practices in complex areas such as living wages and freedom of association.

Good: It is FWF’s belief that members that are making a serious effort to implement the Code of Labour Practices—the vast majority of FWF members—are ‘doing good’ and deserve to be recognised as such. They are also doing more than the average clothing company, and have allowed their internal processes to be examined and publicly reported on by an independent NGO. Most members will receive a ‘Good’ rating.

Needs Improvement: FWF members are most likely to find themselves in this category when major unexpected problems or organisational changes have taken place.  During the past year, the member was unable to fulfil membership requirements.  Needs Improvement ratings give FWF members an opportunity to get their membership back on track; after one year these brands will need to either achieve a Good rating, or membership will be suspended.

Are the requirements the same for all brands?
FWF takes a step-by-step approach, recognising that a serious commitment to improving labour conditions is neither simple nor quickly implemented.  This means the minimum requirements for ‘Good’ or ‘Leader’ status increase over a three-year period: after three years brands should be functioning at a higher level than after one year.
While all brands are evaluated on the same core issues, some indicators only apply to certain business models (e.g. indicators about agents are not applied to brands that don’t use agents).

What is the benefit of these reports to consumers and to brands?
The Brand Performance Checks allow consumers to understand what FWF member brands are doing to support better working conditions in their supply chains.  They also provide brands with detailed feedback that helps them to know which areas to focus on in the future.

Are ‘Good’ and ‘Leader’ brands certified 100% fair?
There’s no such thing as 100% fair clothing – yet. But FWF’s member brands are working hard to get there. Supply chains are complicated and international – which means no single brand, factory or government can improve things alone.  Problems exist in all supply chains.  FWF members are evaluated on what they are doing to prevent problems from happening – and on how they respond when problems are reported.

Do brands get lower scores if they receive complaints from workers?
In many garment factories, functional systems do not yet exist for workers to report and negotiate solutions to problems. FWF members commit to promoting and responding to FWF’s worker helplines, and to finding solutions to complaints.  When brands receive complaints, it is often an indicator that their efforts to inform workers about their rights and the existence of helplines are succeeding.  Brands only get lower scores if they fail to address worker complaints appropriately.

See our Brand Performance Check Guide 2018 for more information.

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New Vacancy: Senior Policy Coordinator

date: 06/07/2018

Fair Wear Foundation (FWF) is looking for a Senior Policy Coordinator to operationalise the FWF Code of Labour Practices among member companies.

This requires coordination with other staff members to ensure FWF’s verification systems effectively generate the results FWF seeks from members. Policy development spearheads new policies and revisions, taking into account developments within the organisation and its membership, and beyond.

Responsibilities include:

  • Coordinate the organisation’s policy work and the collection of policies, guidance and indicators that guide FWF member practices
  • Draft and revise internal policy documents (e.g. FWF’s member guide, risk policies, transparency and competition law policies)
  • Contribute to FWF’s next strategic steps, e.g. redesign of FWF’s complaints and audit systems – or other policy improvements required to respond to changes in the industrial or political environment
  • Monitor FWF policies, recommendations and guidance – from guidance documents to the Brand Performance Indicators—with an eye to cohesion and effectiveness
  • Coordinate with internal and external experts
  • Remain aware of the political, social and economic developments which impact FWF’s policies
  • Liaise with FWF members, the ‘member learning’ team, and external relations team regarding stakeholder input to FWF policies, and communicating with all stakeholders about FWF policies
  • Seek legal counsel, as needed, to address outstanding policy questions, e.g. competition law implications of FWF audit reports and brand collaboration
  • Supervise external consultants when necessary.

See the full job description here.

If you have at least 10 years of relevant work experience, we’d like to hear from you! Please send your C.V. and motivational letter to [email protected], for the attention of Alexander Kohnstamm, Executive Director, before 19 August 2018.

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World Day Against Child Labour: Stories from Myanmar

date: 12/06/2018

On this #WorldDayAgainstChildLabour, we share stories of child workers in garment factories.

Child labour is a global problem. An estimated 218 million children around the world (aged 5-17) work, 70% of whom are considered victims of child labour. Life in a garment factory is difficult, but particularly so for children. Like other garment workers, they face long working days; 60-70 hours per week is standard. The work is physically demanding and also mentally harmful. The following stories are taken from taken from an upcoming FWF report on child labour in Myanmar. Please note that all names have been changed for privacy reasons.

Sadiya: Forced to work after her father’s injury

Poverty is one of the main factors that push children into work. Sadiya started working after her father broke both his arms in a work-related accident. Due to the financial strain on the family, she was forced to quit school, and found a job in a garment factory.

The job was difficult. She explains, ‘In times of high demand, the workers have to work all night’ with a one-hour break for a nap on the concrete floor at dawn, after which they continued to work the whole next day. The family’s financial situation left her feeling that she was unable to miss work, even when she was ill or exhausted.

After Sadiya and other child labourers were discovered, FWF, the member brand, and local NGOs, put a remediation plan in action to offer support, compensation, and the opportunity to return to school or pursue vocational training.

Kyi: Forced to work after her family lost their home

When severe flooding and river bank erosion claimed one family’s property, Kyi reflected on how they were forced to move to a house in a squatter area. ‘My family sold everything we owned, including a flock of ducks that we bred, and moved to [this village]. We had no more farmland or other property, but debts. That’s why my brother and I had to search for a job.’ A few days after the move, Kyi found work at a local garment factory. She was only thirteen.

After FWF representatives met her, with the support of FWF and the member brand sourcing from the factory, she was removed from the factory, given compensation and the opportunity to take a tailoring course at a local training centre. Kyi shared that she hopes to further her skills in the future and set up her own tailoring business after she turns sixteen.

 

Maya: Working without rest for 10 hours per day

Maya comes from a poor fishing community in Bago Region, Myanmar. She quit school at the age of 12 when her parents could no longer afford to pay her school fees. She then went to work in a factory in Yangon.

Maya says that she initially felt very out of place at the factory and was so afraid that she did not dare speak or look at the other workers. She was assigned to feed shirt buttons into tiny holes in fabric, a task that required her to stand without rest for 10 hours each day. ‘My fingertips became swollen and painful, but I had to work standing constantly without even having a few minutes to sit and rest. My legs are also becoming stiff and painful.’

When FWF found out that Maya was working in the factory, FWF and the member brand sourcing from the factory arranged for her to stop working and for her to receive monthly compensation until  her 16th birthday, including a guarantee to rehire her if she should wish to return when she reached the legal age for working.

 

What happens when child labour is discovered?

When a child labourer is found in a factory, FWF takes the necessary action to investigate, including a home visit to ascertain whether the child wants to go back to school or pursue some form of vocational training. Child labourers are denied their dignity and their childhood, but also their potential to dream. FWF, and its member brands, are committed to protecting the rights of children and addressing child labour in garment factories.

To better understand the experiences of child labourers, FWF will be issuing a report based on the experiences of children identified at garment factories in Myanmar in the coming weeks.

Take a look at our work in Myanmar and our Code of Labour Practices which includes no exploitation of child labour.

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